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Some common
email questions and their answers.
< <
Does it really matter whether the
walls go up first or the ceiling? Thanks for your help!!! >
Yes, you should always do the ceilings first.
Every time you install a sheet you want to be able to put it up without
restrictions or getting pinned in. So by doing the ceilings first you
will have some room to work, then the walls will cover the gap at the
edges. Also, remember the backing you put in around the top plates of
the walls? You don't have allot of extra nailing room to be able to have
the walls in first.
It is much easier and better for the ceilings first.
Start from the top and work down; keep the joints tight; then the gaps
will be at the floor line.
Answer: No. If you are using square corners then
you need to install the drywall square/flush at the corners. If you are
using round corners then you need to hold the drywall back 1/4"
-1/2" to allow room for the curved part of the corner bead to fit
on all the way.
Answer:
Is it flat? Flat is everything to drywall finishing. Hold your
taping knife up to the drywall seams and check to see if it is flat.
Make sure it is flat then check to see if all the mud is feathered
into the drywall, watch for scratch lines & ridge lines and make
sure there are no dimples in the mud. When you sand it make sure you
sand only the compound, not the drywall paper. You can wet
sponge your work also - this will keep the dust down.
If you are in doubt then it is a good idea to prime the drywall
before you texture. Once you texture - that's it! You can not go back
and easily fix stuff.
< What is the best way to
hang drywall on walls and ceilings? Is it parallel
or perpendicular to the stud
and/or ceiling joist? And what is the proper
size for walls and ceilings?
i.e., 5/8 or 1/2 inch!
>>Answer
Ceilings -Always install drywall perpendicular to
joist. 5/8" if 24 in. spacing. } 1/2" if 16 in.
spacing.
Walls 1/2" drywall except were firewall rating is required
- under stairways, stair well side walls, the garage wall
against house wall.
Walls can be installed vertical -stand up or horizontal -lay down.
< what nailing
pattern should be used to hang drywall?
There are several pictures and diagrams in the book - three pages
on drywall fasting patterns but the short version of
the nailing patterns are:
On
Wood - The most preferred method for fastening drywall is to nail all
the perimeters of the sheet with drywall nails - then use drywall
screws for the field of the sheet.
Space the nails at the perimeters - edges -top & bottom -
7" apart (5 per row) & the field screws at 12" apart (3
per row)
If you do not use screws in the field then double nail - three sets
of nails with two nails each set.
My question is, " Can I install new sheetrock
directly over old plaster walls using the wooden planks as the target
for the drywall screws?" I am not sure if there are beams inside
the plaster walls, I suppose there must be, but any information you can
provide will be greatly appreciated.
>>
What we do is to knock a hole into the plaster - check out the
framing in find the spacing;
16" - 20" - 24" etc. This would then be what you want to
fasten the drywall to.
Check the depth of the plaster and lath to get the appropriate length
drywall screws.
Check the condition of the lath. You do not want to rely on the lath but
if you miss a stud you may hit some good lath. You know what I mean. Try
for the studs and if you miss you can hopefully hit the lath at a solid
point.
1-1/2" drywall screws with wood threads is typical.
Now if you miss the framing members and happen to connect with the lath
it will be OK.
Let me know if you need more.
For paper tape the mud should be thinned down to medium or thin
consistency. For fiberglass tape you must use fairly thick mud for less
shrinkage. Use either all purpose or hot mud/quick set mud.
Depends what you like to do - nailing or mudding? Some prefer nail
on corner bead. Once it is nailed in place it's solid and will not
blister.
With the tape on corners it takes one coat of all purpose to put
the corner bead on. That is equivalent to the nail on metal being
installed. Now you need to apply two more coats.
Answer: NO. You must use all
purpose compound, taping compound, or hot mud.
Do not use topping compound for any first coat procedures!
Mix all purpose mud so it will flow easy and is easy to work with.
Have the corner bead already cut.
Apply a generous amount of mud to the entire corner so it is very full.
Place the corner bead onto the corner and press it into the exact place
you
want it.
Then wipe down the edges to take off the excess mud.
After it is dry it will need two more coat.
Hope this helps.
Question..? Hi,
I removed wallpaper that was over top of a drywall interior. Some areas
it took off the outer part of the drywall . One or two spots are bad.
approx.
4x5 area. others areas are small 1x1. What is the best way to patch that
so
I can paint.
Answer:
Next time try to use wallpaper remover, it
reactivates the glue so the paper will come off without tearing the
drywall paper.
If the drywall paper is torn
- the drywall will blister. You must repair this.
What you need to do is determine the extent of the problem.
In your question you say the area is 4x5 and 1x2, is this inches or
feet?
If it is only inches than you probably should coat over the bad spots
with hot mud - that is a quick dry powered mud or all purpose compound,
I'll explain the procedure in a minute.
O.K, back to if it is only small few inches that need to be repaired.
Hopefully so!
Use hot mud or all-purpose mud to do this.
1.If you have some paint or primer than apply this first. This will help
seal the blisters.
2.Put mud over the patch, then apply fiberglass tape over the mud, wipe
the tape in.
3.Apply two more coats allowing each coat to dry. Make sure to sponge in
the mud around the
outside edges. This will feather the new mud into the existing surface.
4. Texture to match. There is a spray can of texture at the paint-
building supply stores.
I hope this works -if you need more let me know.
If the bad area is large as in feet than you may want to replace the
drywall.
Remember a sheet of drywall is about $5.00 so the decision is the labor
it will take to repair.
If you are going to replace the drywall:
1. Isolate the bad area's to just a few inches past the damaged drywall.
Mark the drywall you
want to replace with a pencil. Make it straight so it will easy to put
new drywall in.
2. Carefully cut the drywall out with a saw, key hole saw if you have
one. Watch out for the
wires inside the wall.
3.If needed place new backing in by attaching 2"x2"'s or
similar on to the studs.
4. Install new drywall with drywall screws.
5. Tape all the seams using hot mud or all purpose mud and fiberglass
tape.
6. Apply at least 2 more coats after the tape coat.
7. Skim entire wall if needed.
8. Retexture
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<< I am
finishing the ceiling in our family cabin and would like to know how
much space to leave between each sheet. I was told that they should be
as tight as possible with very little space. I was also told that that
it is better to have a space.
>>
Keep the joints tight!
When drywall is butting against drywall it should be tight. When
the drywall is butting against the floor or side wall studs leave a
1/4" space. Hope that helps - let me know if you need more.
thanks
Back to Top
Is there a recommended
nailing/screwing pattern when installing
drywall to ceilings (ie. inside out
or outside in )? What about
wall applications? >>
The
drywall must fit flat against the surface before you start the fastening
process.
Generally there is not a set way; if the drywall fits flush to the
surface it will not matter where you start and finish.
Make
sure you have the correct amount and depth of fasteners. In the book we
show correct nailing and screw fastening patterns. Three screws in the
field and five at the perimeters is basic. If you encounter a situation
were the drywall is not fitting flat against the surface you need to
correct that. You can at times have the insulation puffed with air and
it is pushing against the drywall making it harder to get it truly flat,
then you can screw it off down the middle and work to the ends.
You must make sure there are no obstructions prior to installation.
Pressure against the drywall can cause problems like nail pops.
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<<
I have a 17 year old condo. The tape on the walls of many rooms seems to
be coming off now. Someone told that this was because the builder did
not use enough mud when the house was built. My biggest problem
is in the bathroom. The tape in the corners of the room is bubbled and
crinkled. How can I fix this problem? >>
Sounds like what you need to do is to cut out the bad tape blisters.
1. Use a utility knife and cut out only the spots that have
blistered. These spots do not have enough mud under the tape.
2. Now you need to put fiberglass tape over the place you cut. The
fiberglass tape is self adhesive and you put all-purpose mud over the
top.
3. You will need to put two more coats over each spots allowing each
coat to dry.
If the drywall is textured you need to sponge the edges in after each
coat!
This will blend the new mud into the existing texture.
I hope this helps.
Back to Top
This is new construction. Drywall
was taped, then textured, and primed, and now shows cracks in the
corners.... some extending from ceiling to floor; others only part way
down. What caused this? Would appreciate a prompt response, as the
contractor wants to paint, and we are concerned about these cracks, and
would like some feedback. Our personal opinion is that the building was
not heated and dried out enough before and during the taping, texturing
and priming. Heat was on, while they were working, but not at night.
From start to finish, it took roughly 5 days
from taping to texturing. 4 days later, they sealed it, and 12 hours
after sealing, the cracks appeared.
Sincerely, >>
I think you are right.
Sounds like too much moisture - As the mud and the paint dries the
moisture needs to go somewhere. If there is not adequate ventilation the
moisture will go to the corners causing a hairline cracks. These cracks
will only penetrate into the paint, texture and mud over the tape.
If the paper tape is also cracked then you have a more major problem.
A crack that has broken the actual tape is a structural
All
drywall mud work, texture & painting should have plenty
of
When we texture and paint we leave the windows and or doors open
enough to let this moisture out. Customers will sometimes get upset but
what is better - use extra heat now or extra work later!
It is easy to fix. Use a sharp pointed tool - and lightly etch out
the crack. V it open so the compound will bond both sides. You can see
how deep the crack is - You need to put some light weight one time
spackling into the crack. Only apply enough to fill the crack.
Sheetrock brand name has a product out that is made for this type
of repair.
It comes in a caulking tube - but it is not caulking - it is one time
spackling.
Dries fast - white - and is easily paintable unlike regular caulking.
Back to Top
<<
I'm totally a novice, but I successfully patched a hole in our bedroom
ceiling (about one foot square) with a new sheet of drywall. Then, I
began using mud and tape on the seams and all went well. However, now I
have a dilemma -- how do I match the "knock down" finish that
is on the
rest of the ceiling? I've been trying to practice on an unused sheet of
drywall, but am having little to no success -- HELP!!!!!!!!
>>
Ceilings are tough! You must do everything perfect or it will look like
a patch.
Keep the patch as small as you can.
No matter how large or small the hole in the wall is keep it as small as
you can. Do not cut back to nearest stud unless it is right next to the
patch. If it's 4"by 4" then keep it that size.
1. Place drywall over the patch and draw a line around the hole to make
it the same size as the drywall. Cut out broken and loose pieces - cut
the hole out as close to the outline as possible.
2. Use the 1"x 2" wood backing. Place a drywall screw in to
the backing piece to temporarily hold it into the hole if needed.
3. Attach the 1x2" board with drywall screws. Use a cordless drill
or Phillips head screw driver.
4. Install the piece of ½" drywall into hole.
5. Pre fill / Cover the hole with quick set mud or all-purpose mud
6. Put fiberglass tape over the patch & coat the tape. Sponge the
edges with a wet sponge. This will feather the edges into the existing
texture. Allow to dry.
Note: You must wet sponge the edges of the mud to feather the mud into
the existing texture after each coat!
7. Apply a coat of mud over the patch; pull it tight. Make sure you
sponge in the edges.
8. Allow to dry - lightly sand as needed.
9. Match texture. The spray cans of texture for patches work great.
Allow to dry.
Note: You need to identify the type of texture you have. Check building
supply stores for spray texture patch can - they have pictures on it for
different textures.
10. Paint - minimum of two coats over the patch.
Note: you may need to match paint. If you repaint entire wall make sure
you put two light coats over the patch first.
Mike - You must make sure the patch it flat and smooth or the texture
will not hide the edges of the patch -
So make sure you take a wet sponge and wash the edges of the patch so
the mud is smooth and feathered into the existing texture.
Now you can texture. This is a little tricky. You need to simulate the
knock down - determine how heavy by the depth of the existing texture
and how flat the top of the knock down and then try to match it. You may
need to texture it a couple of times to get it perfect.
The original drywaller probably used commercial equipment so it may be a
little hard to match in one spray.
If you can get a hopper this may make it easier.
Hopper spray texture:
Thicker mud makes deeper patterns/ thinner mud will make flatter
patterns.
Higher air pressure will make smaller patterns/ less air will make
larger patterns.
Mix all-purpose or topping compound/ about ½ - ¾ gal. water per 4 gal.
box mud
Mask off windows, doors etc./ set air pressure @ 45 - 60 psi
Spray uniformly to about 60% coverage - let it set up - trowel it down
When the edges of the spray patterns start to set up/turn white it is
time to knock it down.
Keep the patterns going in one direction/ start at the top of the wall
and pull your widest knife you have down as low as you can reach then
come up from the bottom. Slight to medium knife pressure.
The spray cans are the easiest way to go - check at paint dept and check
the picture on the can to see if this is what you got.
good luck
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The Complete Drywall Book has
full details on proper procedures on:
Installation - Taping -
Texturing Procedures & a free texture tool to make very decorative
textures!
It is 100% Guaranteed
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